There are several ways into the Goat Rocks. Climbers can approach via Snowgrass Flat, Cispus Pass, and Conrad Meadows. Much of it lies above timberline, providing outstanding alpine scenery. Many of the high elevation trails remain impassable due to snow until July, and snow can return as early as September.

Our team - Doug Adair from the Santiam Alpine Club in Oregon, Florence and Michael Sheehan from the WAC, Mike Tanner, and Mike Mahanay started at Conrad Meadows, 14 miles down a mostly dirt road from White Pass. We began in horse and ATV country following the South Fork of the Tieton River. Conrad Meadows was green, lush, and very beautiful. We expected to see a bear or elk at any moment.

At six miles, we were surprised to come across a big, deep, green lake, with Eastern Brook Trout hitting the surface. Called Surprise Lake, there were two parties camping there. Just above the lake, at about 5,500’ we encountered the snow and lost the trail.

Florence just above Warm Lake on summit day ascending to the Klickton Divide.

Our team kicked steps up the steep slope 800’ to the Klickton Divide were we looked for where Warm Lake might be. Traversing toward the peak for half a mile, we found Warm Lake, 6,340’. It was just starting to melt out, and a good source of water. It must be called Warm Lake because it actually melts out, as opposed to nearby Cold Lake which has ice bergs even in August. There were some fine bivy sites higher up, but parties would have to melt snow for water. We set up camp at Warm Lake, at the edge of the Meade Glacier and relaxed for the afternoon. We had great views of the Klickton Divide, and Goat Rocks almost 2,000’ above.

An alpine wonderland, the Goat Rocks Wilderness is part of the volcanic Cascade Mountain Range in southwestern Washington between Mount Rainier and Mount Adams. The Goat Rocks are remnants of a large volcano, or possibly as many as four overlapping volcanoes, extinct for some two million years. This ancient volcano once towered over the landscape at more than 12,000 feet in elevation, but has since eroded into several peaks mostly just under 8,000 feet. They are a jumble of ragged volcanic spires formed by intense volcanic action, and then rapid cooling.

On February 13, 1931, approximately 44,500 acres were officially dedicated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, as the Goat Rocks Primitive Area. This was one of our first Wilderness Areas! The peak was first climbed by Fred G. Plummer and A. H. Sylvester in 1899. In 1934 the peak was a destination on a Mazama summer outing. It was known simply as Goat Rocks until the 1950’s when Mount Curtis Gilbert, and Gilbert Peak became used. It is still mostly referred to as Goat Rocks.

Our view of Mount Adams with a bit of rainbow. Mount St. Helens was having a shower!

Leaving camp shortly after 5 am, the team climbed the steep snow 500’ back to the Klickton Divide in an amazing 20 minutes! I have never seen a team where all the members were so strong! At the Divide we were rewarded with an amazing sunrise view of Mount Adams, a few miles to the south. Mount St. Helens alternated between rays of sun and showers. Before the eruption this mountain was the site of a WAC Summer Outing.

Michael, Florence, Mike, and Doug ascend the ridge to the summit.

From here the route followed the ridge for almost 2 miles, gaining another 1,600’ to the summit. We alternated between rock and snow, but there were only a few steep and exposed places. There was lots of loose rock near the summit, but the short summit pinnacle itself was solid class 4. It dropped off hundreds of feet in all directions except one. We were at the summit in just about two hours from camp!

There was barely room for our party of 5. We were only the third party to summit this year! I was very happy that the entire team made the summit. There was a canister on the summit, but contained only a topographic map which served as the register.

Doug, Michael, and Florence on the summit pinnacle. You can barely see Mt. Rainier to the right.

From the summit we enjoyed our only view of Mount Rainier to the north, and nearby Black Thumb, Little Horn, Big Horn, and Goat Citadel, all just under 8,000’. The cluster of rocks and peaks have become known as Goat Rocks because of the bands of mountain goats that live here. One party reported seeing 40 on a summer day. Even with all the snow, Florence and Mike saw one.

We had a leisurely descent, including a wild 500’ glissade back down to Warm Lake. Early season this would make a great ski trip. There are several possibilities to the summit depending on the approach choice. The route up the Meade Glacier would be fun to do. There are many other worthy peaks in the Goat Rocks, most just shy of 8,000’.

30 hours, 18 miles, and 4,500’ gain. One of Ira Spring’s favorites, this one was for him! Thanks to Michael, Florence, Doug, and Mike Tanner for making this such a fun trip!

The Summit photo! Doug Adair, Mike Tanner, Michael Sheehan, Florence Sheehan, and Mike Mahanay with the Goat Rocks summit!